Sage’s Brunch House in West Olympia is often described as Olympia’s best kept dining secret. The thing is, it’s not really a secret anymore, evidenced by the line out the door some days – especially if it’s a weekend. Or it’s sunny. Okay, it’s almost always busy, but it’s for good reason; the food is superb.
On a particularly sunny Sunday, my tasting party was told that we would have to wait fifteen to twenty minutes for a table, but it ended up being only ten. To get us going, and that combined withthe warmth of the sun and the excitement of food was almost enough to rid us of the residual effects of the previous night.
The first thing I did, naturally, was order the Sake Bloody Mary – see Cooper Point Journal “Best Of” Issue – and it delivered, preparing me for yet another day of bad decisions.
The rest of the group opted for the Morning Glory, Sage’s take on the mimosa. It adds a bit of lemonade and a splash of grenadine to the traditional recipe, but, to me, really just tastes like a mimosa. Not necessarily a bad thing, because mimosas are delicious; just don’t expect anything special. Some days they serve them in regular wine glasses, and sometimes a tryly epic bowl-sized goblet.
And now, to the meat of the review. Or, you know, not – depending on what you’re into. I ordered their famed Migas, a delectable mixture of Portuguese sausage with chilies, peppers, corn, beans, garlic and cilantro. It comes with flour tortillas – I needed a few extra which they were happy to supply. The meld of flavors topped off with their Cajun pepper crème sauce made this one of those meals that you keep forcing yourself to eat long after you’re completely full.
Another dish ordered at the table was the Beneficial Benedict, which is a smoked-salmon/basil garlic cream cheese combination, described by my friend (a benedict enthusiast and basil fanatic) as “the best benedict I’ve ever had.” I wouldn’t go quite that far, but it was definitely in my top five.
The Vegetable Samosas were also enjoyed by the group, a classic potato-filled dish with a healthy mix of greens on the side. Fried potato and vegetables is pretty hard to screw up, and this was no exception. The only complaint here was an excess of the seed topping, it distracted from the warm, fluffy filling and the crisp greens.
Finally, of course, the Biscuits and Gravy. When my friend ordered this, the waitress came back to tell us that they were out of biscuits. This is mainly unfortunate in that it suggests to me that they do not make their own. My friend shrugged it off, and went with the waitress’s suggestion of using an english muffin. My dining companion said later, “I just want the gravy. I don’t care what they put it on.” It would have been a nice touch to knock a few dollars off the meal to compensate for being out of a main dish component, but the fact that it was still an incredibly filling and delicious meal meant we weren’t left feeling miffed.
The atmosphere inside perfectly matched the down-home Olympia cooking. The restaurant was busy without being raucous. With a pile of children’s toys in the corner and local artwork for sale on the walls, it almost felt more like an extended family gathering than a restaurant experience.
Sage’s is cash or check only, so come prepared. But if you forget, the Westside Co-op next door has an ATM that they are happy to let restaurant patrons use, and where Sage’s gets many of their local ingredients.
The perfect spot for a lingering meal with friends, I recommend Sage’s for food still cooked with a personal – and delicious – touch.
By Patrick Stewart
